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 Posted: Mon Jan 16th, 2012 03:49 pm
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slipslider
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I am so glad you explained how you did it, i should have asked. Just sounding like something that would take quite a bit of time with lots of repetition.

It is something i have always wanted to do, but seems I have so many things i have needed to work on, that i have not tried this one.

I may now give it ago, since you say it did not take you long. Thanks



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 Posted: Mon Jan 16th, 2012 12:02 pm
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Takelababy
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Slipslide, it didn't take me as long as you might think and I worked with two horses at the same time. It was done with clicker training. Spending perhaps 15 min at a time I taught then to stand while I circled with one hand touching and when I completed the circle, c/t. Each time I circled I moved a little farther away and again c/t. The next day I rehearsed the body touch circle, c/t, then wandered around not looking at them then approached, c/t. Total time was about 1/2 hour. btw, this was done in their pasture, at liberty, so they could have walked off at any time, but chose to stay.

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 Posted: Mon Jan 16th, 2012 03:22 am
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slipslider
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Ha, Lakota you are right sometimes we are lucky enough to have horses that are well behaved.

Takelababy; sometimes it is not that we do not have the patience, is can also just be a matter of time. As not everyone just has one horse to work with or everyday to do so. I am sure there are many like me, that juggle work, children and other obligations along with our horses. There are some that will say, in that case we should not have so many. And perhaps they are right, but in my case, there would then be three that most likely would be dead right now instead of living happily in my pasture.

I am not taking what you said personally as you are right and it would be great to do as you suggested. Would love to have the time and energy to work with one until it would stand ground tied until i requested it to move and perhaps one day i will, just not today, lol.

This is why i love the forum, so many suggestions and ideas. So if one thing does not work for someone, there are other suggestions that may.

TN: that is a great suggestion as well and i can see how that one will work also.

We just have to pick the one we think will work best for our horse giving the situation.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 16th, 2012 12:23 am
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Takelababy
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A patience post is for the person who doesn't have the patience to work with the horse. If I ask a horse to stand in the pasture while I walk away and do something, he will still be there , either until I return and signal him that he can graze. Not because he was tied to a post but because it was a gradual process that encouraged him to stand quietly and wait.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 15th, 2012 07:46 pm
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TN Trailrider
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Another possible method that might work is to make him move when he starts to paw. Don't actually tie him but just drape the rope over the post to make him think he is tied or use a quick release knot. When he takes the first movement to paw, grab the rope (yank it free if it's a quick release knot) and make him move backwards and sideways (quickly and a lot). Then "tie" him up again. When he lifts his leg to start to paw, move him again. Keep this up until he begs you to stand quietly. It might take more than one day. Maybe do it for awhile on the first day, then take him back without having done anything else to him. Then do it again the next day., etc., etc., until he remembers that pawing equals work. Make the wrong thing (pawing) difficult, and the right thing (not pawig) easy. They understand this and their treat for the right behavior is not having to do any work.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 15th, 2012 04:50 pm
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Lakota
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I moved one time and didn't have horse facilities in place. My horse was tied on a picket line for 30 days in a row. Only was able to take two short rides in that time. He handled it like a champ. So, my reccomendation is to just get a Kentucky Mountain Horse like mine LOL!!!:P In all seriousness though, he was a pretty special horse.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 15th, 2012 03:40 pm
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slipslider
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I am glad you posted this. I believe in using treats/or food as a reward from time to time to establish a desired behaviour. I have found it beneficial to do so.

So yes, i think you are right in what you are doing. I would like to add, that I do use the patience pole as well. I would not do it all day long. I just think that is too long. But some will do it this way and make work for them as every horse is different in what it will tolerate.

I ride my horse first, then I will take him and tie him up in his halter with tack on. I tie him in a place where he can see me and watch while I work the next horse. This gives him something to concentrate on beside just standing and being tied and I can see him and help if he were to get into trouble.

Depending on the situation, I will then at some point go (when horse is standing still and relaxed) go and untie, take him in the stable and untack, then I may take him back and tie him again. Then finish riding the next horse. I will do this to each horse in varying degrees and adjust to what the horse may need work on or just as a refresher to stand tied.

I like to change up the routine. Because when you go to shows or camping you never know what your situation will be. The horse maybe tied all night on picket. Tied while having lunch and of course tied to trailer at a busy show. So keeping a routine at home may not be beneficial to the horse, when you take him away from home.

I think keeping to an exact routine and an exact feeding schedule is what can cause stress and ulcers in those horses. Because once you hit the road, these things can change.

I like hearing how others train with treats as a reward as I do like to do that from time to time. But was not sure how to do it correctly either.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 15th, 2012 12:41 pm
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Takelababy
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Misti, you are on the right track. As mentioned, make a click first. The click reinforces the correct behavior but sometimes it takes a few seconds to get the treat to them. They learn that it is coming. When I give a treat my arm is extended so the horse's nose is away from my pocket or treat pouch. If he gets a little grabby, bump the bottom of his mouth with your fist.

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 Posted: Tue May 10th, 2011 08:08 am
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YaekoCubr1501
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Clicker training is a one of the best training to teach your horse. Previously I was using a different training module but I did not get a good results. Now, I am using a clicker training and now I am getting a good results on my horse.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 05:58 pm
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GypsySusan
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You can use your mouth as a clicker (you always have it with you.)  Just pick a sound you can make with your mouth and don't make for any other cue - a word long drawn out (yesssssssssssssssssss  gooooooooooooddd  yepyep), not a kiss or a cluck unless you don't use them for anything else.  The back up cue is great too.  Susan



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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 01:11 am
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CJM
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I don't remember where I read this, but I think it was on a site for clicker training.  They said it was important to train the horse to step back before you give the hand held treat or put the treat in a bucket.  Another words you can intrude on their space, but they can't intrude on yours.  You tell them to back up and wait for their step back, or you step forward and they step back.  You can then give them the treat. You do not give the treat if they invade your space.  They learn quickly they can't mug you.  This has worked well for one of our guys who came to us as a mugger. He now steps back when he sees the treat.

CJM



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 11:28 pm
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Mistiblue
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Yes,.. I like the clicker training approach.  I don't have a "clicker" so I guess maybe I should get one. 

My back is coming along,.. S-l-o-w-l-y.   The doc says it will be another 4 weeks before I can even being to think about riding.  I hope my horse hasn't fotten how to do it by then.  t2

:D



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 09:31 pm
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407lisas
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I'm a big fan of clicker training.  It's been a great tool in teaching my horse different things.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 08:58 pm
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Hurleycane

 

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Well it sounds to me you are doing pretty good on the listening part with him.  Some will disagree with treats as it gets them grabbing at you.  So if you want - try to associate a word or signal for the coming treat - Mine is "touch" and I offer a closed hand - when they touch with their nose - I turn my hand over and give the treat - Otherwise treats go in the bucket.

I must admit too - I have been very bad and have just been hand treating them with out the 'touch' command - and even Cane is becomming mouthy and a leetle disrerspectful.

So, be careful and purposeful with the treats.  4Square has some good info on this... - goes with clicker training....There is a big thread about it somewhere...s4

How's your back????

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 08:51 pm
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Mistiblue
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I'm pretty sure he's been staked out to a "patience tree" in the past, but it hasn't taught him anything except that now he hates to be tied.

Any other ideas on teaching him patience?



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 08:34 am
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tangoh

 

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Geez...I'm up WAY tooo early...says I posted that last one at 1:58 a.m.!!!!  

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 07:58 am
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tangoh

 

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Does a 'patience post' work for husband's too????   l1

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 07:34 am
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twh addict

 

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Try a patience post.

Take a day when you have all day. tie your horse  and leave, be able to watch him though so he  won't get tangled up. Just let him paw and otherwise show his impatience. every couple of hours offer him water and even a mouth full of hay.  this will help him with his patience.

That is the old time method

You can also start this with just a few minutes at a time and increase the time daily. Just make sure that he has been standing calmly for a minute or so before you release him.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2007 11:55 pm
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Mistiblue
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My boy is a very impatient horse and loves his food.  When he is tethered to the hitching post for grooming, saddling up, bathing, etc., he immediately trys to grab any grass or weeds within reach.  If you tie the lead rope short enough that he can't graze he will start pawing the ground to let you know of his displeasure and impatience.  His former owner would yell at him and slap his shoulder to try and stop that behavior but of course it didn't work. 

So yesterday I had him tethered to the hitching post and when I went to get his brush he began his pawing the ground.  I told him "No" and to stop it, in a stern voice, and then just stood there watching him.  He lowered his head to me and stopped pawing.  I didn't want to wait too long or he'd start pawing again, so when he stopped pawing I praised him up and gave him a cookie treat.  We went through this about three times and each time I waited a little bit longer before giving him the treat.  I think he was beinging to get the idea.  I just don't want him to think that the pawing is getting him the treat.  I make sure he has stopped and his head is held low before I praise him and treat him.

Then I wanted to pick his hooves out and so after each one that he lifted easily for me, I'd give him the cookie treat after I picked his hoof.  The last hind foot he refused to lift for me, so he didn't get a treat.

Am I on the right track with this?



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"The Greatness of a Nation and it's moral progress can be judged by the way that its' animals are treated " - Gandhi
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